Day 22

We've been here for 3 weeks.

Much longer than we had hoped.

Still held up by the same 3 issues: Steering, Engines, Sails.

To be fair, the sails thing is pretty much resolved, the second hand Main is more than adequate. And the new jib should be altered and back on the boat later today... (I must have mentioned that it was originally sewn with a luff rope that was too big for the track on the forestay, and new luff rope was flown in with somebody else's new sail.)

The drifting rudder problem: we *believe* that we finally narrowed down the root cause to an old ball valve, where the "stopper" for the closed position had rusted off and we had likely been "over-closing" (so that it was actually a little bit open & oil was leaking by on the far side). Unfortunately, that valve couldn't be removed; the fittings were all totally seized. So we had great lengths of the hydraulic hoses (they reaching all the across the width of the boat to connect the 2 rudders) removed and a number of fittings and valves replaced.
Infuriatingly, they didn't fit together & seal... so we sent them back!! All with language and culture barriers for extra fun.
The hoses and valves and cylinders and pumps are all reconnected in their proper configuration, holding oil, and we spend a bit of time everyday working any air bubbles out... Air in the system is more compressible than the oil.. and acts like a spring and makes the rudders less responsive and less predictable. So we work to get the bubbles out...
But we won't know until we are underway, and there is real and constant pressure on the rudders, if we've actually solved the drift issue. Sigh.

Starboard engine was misbehaving on our early days & on the way here. Weird noises. Missing oil, some leaked, some burnt. Failing to start. A little bit of everything to make it really difficult to diagnose. And while we had a mechanic here working on diagnostics, the starter failed. O.M.G. So we sent both starter motors out to be rebuilt. And we sit here over weekends and random holidays puzzling over what could be wrong with the engine.
The working theory is that long ago, the exhaust was configured differently, and that salt water got in that way, and made a mess of the turbo, the valves, the seals, & pistons, etc. But that the engine has mostly adjusted to this but has some integral imperfections.
Jeff currently believes that a piston ring became stuck. Leaked a bunch of oil. Became unstuck, and runs fine again now.
Tell me this isn't maddening! Good grief.

Even so...
We've filed our exit request papers, and hope to have departure clearance as of Friday.
Current wind/weather forecasts have favorable conditions early Sunday morning.

For now, deep breaths and lots of hydration.